merry xmas

12/25/07 - merry christmas everyone, got in around 6:45am, surprising there were waves despite the approaching high tide. went to a particular spot, 4 guys out when i got in. (including a professional surfer) sat on a right, got some really good ones, got barreled on a right but also got stuffed. ate it on a few as well, it was comin too fast and i was positioned too deep. as the tide grew higher the waves slowly disappeared, although few were still rideable. i hope to go back out later today when the tide drops, im back to my normal weight and i'm feeling stronger in my arms after 4 days of surfing. *** 3 1/2 out of 5.