Saturday, December 22, 2007

12/21/07, 12/22/07

12/21/07 - was able to get off work early, just in time for low tide for this one spot. it was breaking, not big, but empty. one other guy out. he was good, but mellow, so we were trading off waves my whole session. got lots of waves. i'm still out of shape, my arms were burning. i've got two weeks off though so i'll be in the water every day. glad to be surfing more often lately.
*** 3 /12 out of 5.

12/22/07 - got in around 7:45am, despite the super high tide there were waves. and not just waves, chest/shoulder high sets coming in. i was very surprised. lots were out, and they were good. somehow i managed to keep up with the pack, although i was huffin a bit. got lots of waves again. mushy, but definitely rideable. saw some barrels, didn't get any today though. surfed almost 2 hours, my arms started burning again. fun day. **** 4 out of 5.

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