finally
11/12/07
there's finally some surf in my area, long lull... haven't surfed (again) for over two weeks. stepped on the scale, i gained 10 lbs. i'm out of shape. got in around 6:30am, surfed about two hours. swell was showing but tide was getting pretty high, by the end of my session tide topped off and was backwashing. got some good ones though, also ate it a few times. i'm slow these days, need to get back into surfing on a regular basis. gonna surf all this week though, buoys are showing a nw swell coming in. ** two of of five.
there's finally some surf in my area, long lull... haven't surfed (again) for over two weeks. stepped on the scale, i gained 10 lbs. i'm out of shape. got in around 6:30am, surfed about two hours. swell was showing but tide was getting pretty high, by the end of my session tide topped off and was backwashing. got some good ones though, also ate it a few times. i'm slow these days, need to get back into surfing on a regular basis. gonna surf all this week though, buoys are showing a nw swell coming in. ** two of of five.
1 Comments:
...I need to surf more frecuently too..
time always win
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