Wednesday, October 10, 2007

finally some good surf

10/4 through 10/7, 2007 -
surfed the last few days, it's been good. Satruday being the biggest of the days, it was head high, and definitely fun. the two days prior were much smaller. thursday was small but clean, friday, it was a mess, but i went out anyways. got some waves to my surprise but it was work, and i'm out of shape. saturday was just a good day, kinda crowded though. sunday, it dropped in size but still fun, until the high tide maxed out. ate it on one that backwashed on me, swallowed a little salt water. looking forward to this winter, i hope i don't have another 2 month dry spell...

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