the weekend review

1/26/08 - got up super early, sun was out... offshore, brisk, close outs but the tide was rising, so there was hope. got in around 6:30am, surfed till 9am. at first most waves were closing out, but some were rideable, had to pick and choose. by 8am it was actually good. got lots of waves, all to myself too. another fun day. *** 3 out of 5.

1/27/08 - this was my 3rd day surfing in polluted waters, so far i'm not sick, i've been taking my chances though. wasn't going to go out, but checked it anyways. brought my smallest board again. went to a bad spot, don't know why. i did more dodging of set waves that were closing out rather than catching waves. got a small handful of waves, nothing worth mentioning. surfed an hour at most. *1 1/2 out of 5.

i had to go in

1/25/08 - so it dumped rain yesterday, lots and lots of rain. thinking it was over, went to work. after work, went for a check anyhow (w/out board) saw that it was actually offshore, and glassy around 3pm. ran home, grabbed my new board and headed back down. it was fun. hopefully i won't get sick, i usually don't, only once in the last 10 years. about 7 others out as well. small, maybe waist high at most, but conditions made it worthwhile.

starting to get a good feel for my new board, sometimes it takes me a bit to adjust. *** 3 out of 5.

MLK

MLK day 1/21/08 - it was small, no one out, onshore, just bad conditions. just got my new board, it's tiny. but, despite the conditions, i had a blast. there's nothing like trying out a new board where everything is unfamiliar to you. it's almost like learning how to surf again. (well, not really but kind of). no one out around me, got lots of waves, i was surprised. mind you, they were little ones, barely waist high at most, mainly knee high, the tide was very high.
** 2 out of 5, 3 1/2 out of 5 on the fun factor.

dry

1/12/08 - been dry since sat. 1/12/08. too much stuff goin on to be able to get a session. when i do have the time, the swell disappears... oh well
on this day, went to the closest spot to my pad, got some good ones with only 4 others out. 2 hours plus, lefts mostly... kind of closing out on the sets, i sat wide from the others to make the sections. *** 3 out of 5.

hopefully this new swell with pick up by later today/tomorrow morning.

took a few days off

surf wasn't very good the last few days so i didn't go in. but, i did go in friday 1/4/07. it was small, and the tide was high. there was a sandbar with small lefts close to shore. i kept my expectations low and actually had fun. out for about 2 hours. ** 2 out of 5.

1/5/07 - swell picked up considerably. waited for low tide to approach, got in around 12:15pm, surfed till 2pm. head high on sets, about 6 guys out. all lefts, it was good, not great, some walls. nothing to special to write about. a bit chilly. *** 3 out of 5.

a day of rights

12/31/07 - a good way to end the year. surf was in the chest to shoulder high range this morning. got in around 7:15am. surfed till 9:45am. seemed like a straight west swell, lots of closeouts but lots of barrels too. mainly rights where i was at, people were getting barreled, for me, not quite, but got some good ones. a couple knuckleheads in the water blowin' waves and bailing their boards. not cool. tide dropped as i got to the end of my session, more closeouts so i took one in. (quite a crowd by then too) **** 4 out of 5.

12/30/07

12/30/07 - another brisk day, man it's chilly. got out around 7:45am, tide was slowly dropping. nice and offshore. not big really, but really clean, conditions were really nice. saw a dude swimming bareback, polar bear club style... crazy. got a waist high barrel, even came out of it. (a left) got a couple set waves too. if there was more swell it would of been that much better, but overall a fun day. **** 4 out of 5.